It's Fun Being Loved So Much!

Wow, I went offline for two days and I had a ton of emails asking where I am and if I'm OK!  Great!  :)

Here I am, in person, live from Istanbul:

I have my regular goofy crooked smile, so you can be certain that it's me and it isn't some cheap imitation.

I've done some pretty amazing things over the past two days.  Yesterday, I went to the Archeological Museum, with the specific goal of seeing some Summerian statues that I've read about, and I spent the better part of four hours there.  I was most impressed by the statues of animals and the Byzantine headstones.  I then went to the Topkapi palace.  It was a bizarre experience.

First of all, it was really, really crowded.  Two huge cruise ships came in, one full of Germans and another full of Italians.  This, in addition to the regular mix of Japanese, Dutch, Turkish, Spanish and a few Gringos-- made it a very interesting mix.  I think that between the things that I saw at the Hagia Sophia and what I saw at the Topkapi Palace, I've become a groupie of the Ottoman Empire.  I was absolutely amazed at what I saw at the Palace, most notably the Harem, the Divan, the Baghdad Pavilion and the (yeech) Circumcision Room.  But, I think that the icing on the cake was a very bizarre display or rare items.  I saw the following, not in any particular order:

• the staff of Moses
• the Prophet David's Turban
• the Prophet Abraham's Dinner Bowl
• the arm of John the Baptist
• the skull of John the Baptist
• a whole bunch of stuff belonging to the Prophet Mohammed

I just don't know what to say about that.  Let's just say that like any child.. I want to believe.

So, after that blowout, I really can't say that anything else that day could possibly compare.  So, I took a quick run by the Hagia Irene and went back to the hotel for a nap.  Wouldn't you after seeing all of that in about 15 minutes?

Today, I went to an amazing museum:  The Turkish and Ottoman Museum.  I've confirmed my interest in the Ottoman Empire.  I  couldn't take pictures there, but it was fascinating.  I think that one of the most important things that I saw was an exhibition on the 1400th Anniversary of the Koran.  I actually saw Korans from the late 8th Century. 

I then did something rather daring.  My friend Lee made me promise him that I would go to the Chora Church.  It wasn't a difficult thing to agree to-- but it was a bit difficult to get to.  I had to take a bus through several neighborhoods.  It was kind of bizarre.  On one street, I saw about two hundred (this is not hyperbole) wedding dress shops, or better yet, prom dress shops.  I saw the most extravagant dresses in these store windows, while I was riding the bus.  I've never been interested in prom dresses before, but I have to tell you that YOU would also be interested. 

Chora Church was worth the trip.  I had read about it before, but the Hagia Sophia is kind of like "the Istanbul Drama Queen," and rightfully so.  People don't visit Chora too much.  But, having said that-- it's very much worth the visit.  I think that the only major Byzantine religious monument that is left, now, is Ravenna.

On the way back from Chora, I found "the New Mosque," that meaning about 400 years old.  I had passed by it several times and I really wanted to enter.  I went in today and I was treated to the Iman giving an afternoon service, in chant, with the entire mosque floor full of people in prayer.  It was a powerful experience.  The Mosque, itself, was beautiful.

OK, I need to get up in about four hours in order to catch my cab to the airport.  I've posted today's (and yesterday's) pictures on Facebook.  If you aren't my Facebook friend, just add me.  If you want me to send you the link to today's pictures from Facebook, I can do that.  You won't need to join.  I'm too tired to upload all of these pictures (from two days) to Picassa. 

I'm leaving Istanbul very happy and satisfied.  I'll be back to Turkey, no doubt.  I want to learn some Turkish.  I felt a bit hindered without being able to speak to people.  But, they've been incredibly friendly to me, every single one.  I haven't had one unpleasant interaction.  I want to see other parts of the country, especially Koyne, where Rumi is buried.  I want to go to Edirne.  I want to go to the beach in Southern Turkey!  Oh yeah, I also want to go to Cappadoccia.  So, now I need to go back to Nashville to work and save money so that I can return to do this.

I'm a bit worried about my two hour layover in Paris, tomorrow.  I don't know if it's all CNN and US hype.  No problems in Turkey.  Who cares if a women wants to wear a head wrap?  What difference does it make to me?  What I've seen, this whole myth of the "supressed Muslim woman" is just that-- a myth.  At least, that's the way it is in Istanbul.  I can't imagine it being all that different in Paris, Nashville or any other part of the US.

Wow, What a Day!

OK, this might have passed the Earthquake Day.

Today, I went inside of the Hagia Sophia and saw it.  Words cannot describe how I felt walking through that door and the absolute amazement/astonishment/awe that I felt when I was standing there under the dome.  Did you know that it is so big that the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris could easily fit inside of the Sanctuary?  OK, for those of you who need a different point of reference, how about the Statue of Liberty being able to do jumping jacks?

I'll try to keep from waxing poetic, but I fear that I already have.

The lighting was poor, so photo taking was not optimal.  But, I bought a book.  So, you're more than welcome to meet up with me and see it.  But, it was amazing.  While the mosaics were impressive, what I think impressed me the most were the large medallions on the walls and the fresco paintings throughout.  I spent about three hours just soaking it up and I might go back tomorrow and see it again!

The four seraphim were strikingly beautiful.  On the suggestion of my Turkish friend from Nashville, Tügba, I paid special attention to the recently restored face of one of the angels.  It was breathtaking.

I could go on and on.

Afterward, I did another special visit.  In spite of having done all of this traveling in my life, I've never set foot on the continent of Asia.  So, I took a $1 ferry ride over to Asian Istanbul, where I visited a really nice mosque and went to the hypermarket and bought myself some apple tea in the grocery store.  I have a ton of it now, which should last me for about a week, when I get back.

I then went back to Europe, crossing over the Galata Bridge, to hop on the "Tünel," or Furnicular (from 1841, I think) to go up to the Istiklal Caddesi, the main drag through town.  It's an amazing street full of people.  Yes, I did do something tacky... I stopped and had a Starbucks.  I've gone several days without my grande no-fat latte and I really wanted it.  I went on down the Caddesi, stopping in a few stores and buying presents.  I even bought myself something, which as you know, I never do when I travel.  It's a scarf.  I can now run around Nashville looking like a Palestinean.  I made my way up to Taksim Square and took it in.  From Taksim Square, I walked back to the hotel, which is next to the Hagia Sophia.  I think that I walked at least 10 miles today.  Great.

I'm dead tired, but have I had a great day or what?

Here's the link to the pictures, today's sojourn is found in the last, say, 50 pictures.  I've also included pictures from my walk last evening around the Hippodrome, where I was able to "hang out" with the Byz's.

Click here for the pictures.

They're Just That Way: They Ain't Scammin' Ya......

Turks are really nice people.  Oh sure, there are some who would love to rob you of everything you have and leave you in the gutter. The population of the country is 39 million and I would assume that there are at least TWO psycho-sociopaths paths here.

But, I digress.

They're outgoing, friendly and bordering on innocent, in a fine way, which makes us jaded Americans look at their ways with caution.  The initial reaction is that they all have a scheme and they're all out to scam us.  I honestly think that it couldn't be further from the truth.

First and foremost, they really want to practice their English with you.  They speak English quite well, and a lot of the television is American programming with Turkish subtitles.  The only other place where I've seen this is in The Netherlands, and they also speak English quite well.

Once again, I digress.

So, they want to practice English.  This manifests itself in three ways:
a)  When you buy something, they strike up a conversation with you;
b)  They will literallly stop you on the street and ask you questions in English;
c)  The men, always the men, will try to very aggressively get your attention and/or try to sell you or offer you something.

Today, while on the boat, there were some college-aged guys sitting on the bench across from me and one of them, like a giggly schoolgirl, finally asked me "please spell your name."  Seeing that TODD is a bit uneventful, I said ALEXANDER A-L-E-X-A-N-D-E-R.  Unfortunately the conversation stopped there, because that was the extent of his English.  I can't imagine three male Vandy sophmores asking an obviously foreign tourist in Nashville to "please spell his name."

But, I think that the best exchange, of the category (c) type, happened today. 

Today, some guy on the street stopped me and tried to sell me a Spirograph.

The dialogue went something like this:

Turk: Hello, Mr. Where you from?

Me: Lithuania  Sometimes it's Lithuania.  Mostly it's from Canada.  Once or twice, I made up a name of a Country-- something like "Outer Phidilandia."

Turk: Oh, I have cousin there, Lithuania. Do you want to buy Spirograph?   Honestly, this one caught me completely by surprise.

Me: What? Tone indicates utter shock. 

Turk: Yes, nice Spirograph to take back to Lithuania.

Needless to say, I did not buy a Spirograph.  I had one as a kid and I can see that even at my advanced age, I could still have fun with a Spirograph, but I'm not sure that the TSA would let me into the USA with a Turkish Spirograph. It might look like a terrorist device to them.

The Megalo

I've done it!  I went there!  It was the best, amazing and most awesome.  I will post pictures tonight and write about the experience.

Today's Pictures

Click Here:  They're towards the end.

And now, "about last night..."

I'm starting to post pictures.

Click Here

Apple Tea

  Dog'adan Elma Meyve Çayi

This stuff is awesome.

Honestly, the BEST DAY, EVER!

I don't even know where to start.

I flew over the Alps today.  That was awesome.

First, we took a CRAZY trip into town in an airport shuttle, the highlight of which was getting stopped by the National Police at a police checkpoint and all "having to show our papers." 

Then, I actually saw the Hagia Sophia.

 Then, I visited Istanbul's Blue Mosque.

Then, at 8:49PM tonight, Istanbul had an earthquake.  I've never felt one before in my whole life.

I'm so excited, I can't sit still.  Pictures tomorrow.  I've already posted a good number of them on Facebook.

Paris in the Dark: Why is this airport so Ghettolicious?

A very unremarkable flight from Atlanta to Paris.

The best part was that we crossed the ocean in amazing time and arrived in Paris one hour early.  I enjoyed sitting down and resting for 7.5 hours and my seatmate was very pleasant and basically listened to his Ipod the entire trip.

They fed us way too much and I only slept 30 minutes. But, I'm fine.

So, I'm sitting here at gate 50 in 2F at CDG.  I'm kind of smelly and I really could use some coffee.  It's pitch black here because the sun doesn't rise until like 9 or something like that. There is a flight leaving for Algiers before mine, so the gate is a bit crowded with people.  The muslims are saying their morning prayers. 

Changing planes at this airport is major drama, but I have so much time and it really didn't bother me that I had to take a bus between terminals, go through two security checkpoints and deal with surly French people who brazenly just cut in line.  Security alerts are very high today, because it's rumored that there will be some type of terrorist attack in France, because the Legislature just passed a ban on the use of the burqua in public spaces.

I'm hoping that my plane arrives on time, maybe early (???) so that I can stop by one of the mosques tonight in Istanbul in time for evening prayer.  I think that it's a good thing.

Hot-lanta

I'm already well into my 4 hour in Atlanta.

I was very happy to get my daily "cardio" in, as I was able to walk the entire length of the Atlanta airport, three times, in the underground tunnels.  I did three miles in one hour.  I'm now kind of sweaty and I'm glad that I brought an extra shirt in my backpack.  I think that it will also help me with my jetlag, once I get to CDG.

The airports are full of very young kids, soldiers, leaving for Iraq.  Geez, they're children.  I look at them and while I have very strong anti-war feelings, I can't help but feel a strong sense of compassion for them.  I didn't know that there was going to be a troop surge in Iraq?  I thought we were pulling out of there?

Flight to Paris is leaving on-time.  I have about 1.5 hours left to kill. 

Trajectory and Final Plans

I leave in the morning (Saturday, October 2nd) at 9:00AM.  My scheduled arrival time on Sunday, in Istanbul is 3:00PM.  This is a total of 23 hours of travel.  I will have a 4-hour layover in Atlanta and a 3.5 hour layover at CDG (Charles de Galle) in Paris.

My plan is arrive in one piece and calm.  I think that I should be able to do this, as I'm traveling light and fortunately Delta will allow me to check a bag for free.  I know that I'll have to go through some sort of immigration procedure in France, but I doubt that I'll have to go through customs.  I'll be going from Terminal 2F to 2G at CDG.

I'm basically spending my day today attending conference presentations and doing conference calls.  Tonight, I plan on finishing packing and relaxing.  It's going to be a very long and exciting day tomorrow.