Here I am, in person, live from Istanbul:
I've done some pretty amazing things over the past two days. Yesterday, I went to the Archeological Museum, with the specific goal of seeing some Summerian statues that I've read about, and I spent the better part of four hours there. I was most impressed by the statues of animals and the Byzantine headstones. I then went to the Topkapi palace. It was a bizarre experience.
First of all, it was really, really crowded. Two huge cruise ships came in, one full of Germans and another full of Italians. This, in addition to the regular mix of Japanese, Dutch, Turkish, Spanish and a few Gringos-- made it a very interesting mix. I think that between the things that I saw at the Hagia Sophia and what I saw at the Topkapi Palace, I've become a groupie of the Ottoman Empire. I was absolutely amazed at what I saw at the Palace, most notably the Harem, the Divan, the Baghdad Pavilion and the (yeech) Circumcision Room. But, I think that the icing on the cake was a very bizarre display or rare items. I saw the following, not in any particular order:
- the staff of Moses
- the Prophet David's Turban
- the Prophet Abraham's Dinner Bowl
- the arm of John the Baptist
- the skull of John the Baptist
- a whole bunch of stuff belonging to the Prophet Mohammed
So, after that blowout, I really can't say that anything else that day could possibly compare. So, I took a quick run by the Hagia Irene and went back to the hotel for a nap. Wouldn't you after seeing all of that in about 15 minutes?
Today, I went to an amazing museum: The Turkish and Ottoman Museum. I've confirmed my interest in the Ottoman Empire. I couldn't take pictures there, but it was fascinating. I think that one of the most important things that I saw was an exhibition on the 1400th Anniversary of the Koran. I actually saw Korans from the late 8th Century.
I then did something rather daring. My friend Lee made me promise him that I would go to the Chora Church. It wasn't a difficult thing to agree to-- but it was a bit difficult to get to. I had to take a bus through several neighborhoods. It was kind of bizarre. On one street, I saw about two hundred (this is not hyperbole) wedding dress shops, or better yet, prom dress shops. I saw the most extravagant dresses in these store windows, while I was riding the bus. I've never been interested in prom dresses before, but I have to tell you that YOU would also be interested.
Chora Church was worth the trip. I had read about it before, but the Hagia Sophia is kind of like "the Istanbul Drama Queen," and rightfully so. People don't visit Chora too much. But, having said that-- it's very much worth the visit. I think that the only major Byzantine religious monument that is left, now, is Ravenna.
On the way back from Chora, I found "the New Mosque," that meaning about 400 years old. I had passed by it several times and I really wanted to enter. I went in today and I was treated to the Iman giving an afternoon service, in chant, with the entire mosque floor full of people in prayer. It was a powerful experience. The Mosque, itself, was beautiful.
OK, I need to get up in about four hours in order to catch my cab to the airport. I've posted today's (and yesterday's) pictures on Facebook. If you aren't my Facebook friend, just add me. If you want me to send you the link to today's pictures from Facebook, I can do that. You won't need to join. I'm too tired to upload all of these pictures (from two days) to Picassa.
I'm leaving Istanbul very happy and satisfied. I'll be back to Turkey, no doubt. I want to learn some Turkish. I felt a bit hindered without being able to speak to people. But, they've been incredibly friendly to me, every single one. I haven't had one unpleasant interaction. I want to see other parts of the country, especially Koyne, where Rumi is buried. I want to go to Edirne. I want to go to the beach in Southern Turkey! Oh yeah, I also want to go to Cappadoccia. So, now I need to go back to Nashville to work and save money so that I can return to do this.
I'm a bit worried about my two hour layover in Paris, tomorrow. I don't know if it's all CNN and US hype. No problems in Turkey. Who cares if a women wants to wear a head wrap? What difference does it make to me? What I've seen, this whole myth of the "supressed Muslim woman" is just that-- a myth. At least, that's the way it is in Istanbul. I can't imagine it being all that different in Paris, Nashville or any other part of the US.
